Zankov: Knitwear specialist Henry Zankov has been designing sweaters for many of the industry’s big names for years. Now, he’s branching out under his own name. ‘Each piece is made to last and cherish,’ says the designer. Mixing technical know-how with an intuitive feel-good factor, Zankov showed a wardrobe of crewneck sweaters, sporty knit hoodies, ‘jumpergans’, oversized blankets and even a pair of mohair basketball shorts. Checkerboard and stripes are established a brand motif. Using specialty yarns such as high twist viscose crepe and super soft brushed alpaca-blend mohair - so light its ‘air-spun’ - Zankov creates sculptural pieces that are extremely light. The set was impressive: chairs were custom-made by Brendan Timmins, graphic walls created from off-cast cardboard by architect Gabriel Feld, and metal frames by architect Samuele Brianza.
Tibi: Designer Amy Smilovic opted out of a runway show this season, and decided to invite showgoers to an convivial presentation held at her brand’s Soho boutique instead. ‘This season, I wanted someone thing new. I was craving something a little more permanent,’ she says. ‘I think the idea that after this show, [the shop] will still be here - it feels really me.’ Inspired by travel, the label’s versatile new collection, which teams classic, evergreen silhouettes with an array of cleverly tweaked details, was also accompanied by cozy footwear, embellished travel pillows and the brand’s riff on an airport shop, stocked with travel essentials and souvenirs all specially branded with its logo.
Sandy Liang: Showing in Stuyvesant High School, the school Sandy Liang graduated from 10 years ago, models with barely a scrap of make-up walked the breadth of the atrium to a live string ensemble overlooked by two NYPD attendants manning the reception desk. A decade on, Laing has graduated into a new confidence. Her brand of New York femininity meets sportswear that was once born from coloured shearlings has now evolved into more understated, grown up and easy-going mood. A bib front white cotton blouse, a black leather pencil skirt, and knee-high boots with a sensible run-around-town heel set the tone. The looks that tried the least - a smocked black blouse and perfectly cut high waisted jeans - were the most successful and felt the most fresh. Laing has shown she has another string to her bow with great every day city pieces. A handful of men’s looks that involved sporty fleece and tracksuits felt like a fitting accompaniment.
Self-portrait: In a credible evolution of his line, Han Chong showed a compelling offering of elegant daywear and sophisticated partywear where wearability and beauty was paid equal consideration. In recent seasons, he’s moved away from decorative flounces and frills, streamlining the silhouette for a more grown up woman. It’s paying dividends. Bobbin lace peeked out from below a tuxedo jacket; a black waisted PVC jacket had a new strictness; tailoring was impressively sharp and robust, well executed in a lilac overcoat. Svelte party dresses came in figure-skimming velvet speckled with diamente crystals. Footwear was a surprising highlight with Edwardian-esque satin mules and patent heels with Perspex block heels.
Christopher John Rogers: The biggest crowds this week have been drawn by Christopher John Rogers, emerging talent and recipient of the CFDA 2019 Fashion Fund Award, known for flamboyant silhouettes and unapologetic colours. Only a year ago he was showing with a self-funded presentation on the Lower East Side. Today, international top editors, stylists, buyers and New York’s creatives jostled to take their place at this Spring Studios show, six rows deep. The mood was high drama and subversive nightlife. The set was concepted to recreate a Parisian salon show. Executed by Barcelona-based studio Sauras + Garriga - run by architect Sergi Sauras and designer Mery Garriga, a swath of velvet and contemporary chandelier outfitted the space. This is a rare designer that manages to span red carpets and magazine covers, with a gender-fluid club culture appeal. Needless to say, the crowds were riveted.
Ulla Johnson: Charlotte Perriand’s ’L’art de Vivre’ served as a touchstone for Ulla Johnson’s latest collection, which displayed an artful sensibility. Packed with vibrant patchwork, tie dye and ikat prints, a rich colour palette inspired by East Africa and Francis Bacon, and plenty of handcrafted touches, the label’s feminine silhouettes took on a bold flavour and a heightened confidence. Knee-high boots, sculptural jewellery, oversized sunglasses and large slouchy handbags effortlessly complemented signature staples such as leather overalls, diaphanous dresses and denim boiler suits.
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